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Tires

Copyright © 2000 by  M. Hilton Taylor.   All Rights Reserved by T.A.M.S.

It ain’t rocket science  . . . is it.

This is all about making sure your tires are ready to do what they are supposed to do . . . deliver you safely from one point to another. Tires many times are the most overlooked part of your bike.  Make sure you check . . .  air pressure, tread depth, and look for other problems with your tires? If not, you may be writing your invitation to your next big blowout so maybe it is time to “re-tire”.

Tires are another area where you can waste some money. Tires may all look like big rubber donuts, but they are not all created equal.  Engineers have spent a lot of time developing the right tire for the right application. Every tire has a speed rating, a load rating, a size and is designed for some typical riding conditions.  Your riding conditions, style of motorcycle, and type of riding determine the correct tire for your application.  Touring bikes typically haul heavier loads and run longer distances.  This puts more stress on your tires as you build heat in the tires for longer periods, so a higher load rating is beneficial. Sport bikes usually are built lighter and run higher speeds. They need a tire that has more side wall for greater lean angles, higher speed ratings, and less tread depth. Cruiser bikes usually weigh less than tour bikes, run slower speeds than sport bikes, and have different handling needs.  They need a different tire. If you ride like grandma at 50 mph, then you really don’t need to pay the extra for the high speed rated tires. Pretty much anything will do but, if you are one of the high speeds, “wanna be” racing imitators; you will most likely need the best tires along with a good health care policy.  High speed tires have to sustain high temperature, high stress, and good traction usually with a loss of tire mileage. For most riders a tire rated for a sustained 100 mph will suffice.  Look at the tread.  Circular grooves that run around the tire shed water well but you will feel the highway grooves.  Tread that runs diagonal will not be as sensitive to the grooves and can still shed the water.  Slicks should be left for the track boys. Check the tread with a penny and when you can see Lincoln’s hair-do it is time to gather up a bunch of Lincoln’s and spring for some new tires.

The manufacturer specifies tires that have been designed for your bike and riding conditions and will sometimes specify some optional sizes. These are your safest bets to avoid your invitation to the “big blowout”.  A typical touring tire is a MT90-16 71 or 74H. In English this tire is about 5.14 inch wide, uses a 16 inch rim, speed rated to 130 mph and has a load rating of 761 lbs for the front and 827 for the rear. The little letters and numbers do mean something.  The tire will also have the maximum air pressure the tire can stand stamped on the sidewall, this is not the recommended inflation psi.  Check your owner’s manual to obtain the correct psi.

How can you reduce your chances of being at the next big blowout? 

Check:

      • · air pressure when the tires are cold and set to the manufacturers recommendations,
      • · tread depth using a small ruler or by looking at the tread wear indicators (usually between the treads),
      • · recommended tires for your bike and riding conditions, and
    • If you find anything wrong . . . I suggest you may want to re-tire.
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