· Can you get your feet flat on the ground?
· Can you reach all of the foot controls? Clutch, Brake, etc
· Is it a stretch to reach the handle bars?
· Can you get your hands around the clutch and brake levers?
· Are the controls easy to operate?
· Can you sit up straight and be comfortable?
· How hard is it to stand it up from the side stand?
· Can you sit on it and move it forward and backward?
· Are you comfortable turning it around?
· Do you like the way it looks?
· Can the bike be adjusted to fit you exactly?
Some items can be changed to make a bike a better fit for you but some cannot. First let’s talk about the things that can be changed to make it a better fit.
Adjusting the height from the seat to the ground
· Most bikes can be lowered a small amount by suspension adjustments without drastically affecting the ride.
· Different seats can sit you lower, more forward, more rearward, or higher.
· Seats can have backrest, be wider, or narrow.
· Can you see over the windshield and can it be adjusted up and down.
Adjusting the reach
· Handle bars can be changed to be taller, more forward, and pull back to you
· If the foot controls are too close you can extend them forward
· Foot controls can sometimes be adjusted rearward if you are shorter
· Some the bikes offer levers that can be adjusted closer or more spread out
· Floor boards can also help with the reach and are more comfortable
Testing the balance and weight
· Test the felt weight by sitting on the bike and standing it up
· Does it feel heavy to lift off of the side stand
· When it is straight up lean it slightly side to side. Do you feel comfortable?
· Roll it forward and backward in a straight line. Can you move it easily?
· Push it rearward while turning. Do you feel in control?
Ask for a test ride. You may not get one but ask any way.
Now let’s look at some of the things you cannot change or require a re-fabrication of the bike, but they are important. These are items that also determine some of the bike’s ability to be adjusted or how it handles.
Things you cannot change or cannot change easily
The first is the rake of the front end, which is the angle of the fork from a straight up line. The rake of the bike affects the handling. The more extreme the rake is (>35 degrees), the more difficult the bike steers at low speed. The more straight up the rake is (<30 degrees), the better the all round handling and the quicker the steering. Most the cruisers today have a rake of 30 – 36 degrees. Tour bikes are closer to 26 degrees of rake. A new rider will find it harder in most cases to ride a bike with a lot of rake, but you would look cool. Can it be changed? Yeah, but why would you want to?
The next important item is the size of the wheels. Some bikes have fat rear tires and skinny front tires. Some of the tires are the same size front and rear. The arrangement of the tires can affect the ride quality and some handling characteristics. Skinny front tires and road grooves will make you feel the shakes! Some bikes may have a different diameter wheel on the front than the rear.
final drive is usually a chain, belt, or drive shaft. Each has its own characteristics. Chains usually require more maintenance than a belt or driveshaft. Mostly it is an individual preference.
The shock arrangement is another item. Exposed shocks usually are the easiest to adjust but not always the best. Shocks can be located under the bike, a single shock inside the frame area, or exposed. Most are adjustable by turning the housing or by using air. The shock arrangement will also affect whether the bike can be lowered or if it can be lowered.
When you purchase a new bike be sure it is set up for you. Sit on it and be sure the handlebars feel comfortable and you can reach all of the controls easily and comfortably. Sit upright in a normal seating position with your back straight. You should never have to lean forward to adjust the radio or to reach that CB button and be sure you can reach the soft drink holder. Most importantly, be sure you feel perfectly relaxed while riding, not quite like that lazy boy at home, but close.
Be sure the dealer explains all of the simple stuff they think you should understand but “have no clue what they are talking about stuff”. Make them go over all of the controls so you understand how to operate them, before you need to use one. I have found it hard to refer to the manual while riding down the roadway.
Now that you have done the homework and found that perfect ride it is time to get out in the wind. Right . . .? Not so fast new rider! Take your bike home and find a large deserted parking area and ride your bike around and get comfortable with the motorcycle. Test the clutch friction zone so you know where it catches. Be sure you can make the turns, stop comfortably, accelerate, start on a hill, find the turn signals without looking, and control the new bike. Remember that this is not the bike you took the course on. It will more than likely be bigger and feel quite different than the bike you rode in the motorcycle course. You do not want to try to become familiar with the new motorcycle while trying to dodge all of the other vehicles that seem to act as if you are not there. Once you are comfortable then get on some open road and ride. You need miles. It usually takes about 5,000 miles before you begin to really feel like you are one with the bike. Polishing those skills will keep you one with the bike and help prevent you from becoming divorced from each other. Divorce in general is not good, but becoming divorced from your motorcycle at speed is especially not good.